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It's packed solid for lunch and dinner seven days a week. I've been chowing down on the cow here for a solid five years or more and, as far as steak-houses go, I'd be shocked to find anything better anywhere in the capital. Getting a berth at a table is the hard part. It's a bit dog-eat-dog to be honest as there's no system for making reservations nor a stroppy maitre de to muscle customers into line.

Thankfully it all runs smoothly thereafter. Boys cook cows and girls serve them in this joint, the whole act overseen by a very astute couple who are never far away from the cash tin. Tweet This! The last one came from Ha Tay. Not a bad place for a chook to grow up, I s'pose. It did look a bit wonky when I got it out and thawed it, as if it had been folded or something. You see I'd thought I'd do a roast this time. Most of these birds get boiled or grilled. I had to be vigilant and I had to use aluminium foil for part of the cooking time. The result was well worth the risk.

I cleavered the bird into pieces and surrounded them on the plate with sweet and normal potatoes. The Spot: North-west of the Old Quarter, within spitting distance of Truc Bach Lake and just up from the Chau Long market, this fine exponent of bird soup is directly opposite the Hanoi Cooking Centre which incidentally had its official launch late last week. One of my favourite coffee hangouts is nearby Nothing quite like good pho followed immediately after by an hour on the caffeine drip! Space and Atmosphere: A jolly owner directs patrons to appropriate parking spots and collects the dong on the way out.

Amazing what seven years in a classroom with Vietnamese students can do!


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I think my textbooks were covered with the stuff in the 70's. Dusty plastic flower arrangements feature prominently and every unopened soft drink, beer and Hanoi vodka bottle is shelved against the floral walls, giving off some kind of trippy psychedelic vibe. The business altar above the back door is flashing with fairy lights. Shopfront Style: Mixed messages are being conveyed here. The latter has the correct address.

Ignore the signs and look for the chickens! A clean-freak is in the house somewhere! Serving Station: A chopping block, various plastic containers of seasoning, mi chinh , lime leaf needles and stainless steel bowls and trays loaded up with bird bits for all tastes as well as plates of rare and corned beef for the pho purists Meat Generosity: A generous handful of quality bird from the thigh and breast lands in my bowl along with a serving of trang trung tubes and eggs.

Service to Delivery Gap: I hit this bird soup house during a lull, so after putting in my order on the way in, the soup practically followed me to the table.

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Let me just rate this as pretty bloody good! The ubiquitous com binh dan restaurant is the lunch experience that Hanoian workers gravitate toward, whether they toil carting coal, selling lychees or pushing a pen in a government office. Translating roughly as "rice at a reasonable price", these lunch outlets replicate the home-cooked meal which, not all that long ago, most Vietnamese returned home to consume. But life is busy these days and times have certainly changed in this developing country.

Going home for lunch with mum, where there could be some nagging about housework or the boyfriend or a dish one doesn't like but she insists on making or a stint with the dish cloth Like at home, rice is central at these eateries and it is served in big old communal buckets when eating with the colleagues and only slightly smaller ones when eating on one's Pat Malone. The latter is rare as the Vietnamese consider the lone diner a cause for concern, even pity. I am far from concerned as I make myself known to the buffet choices.

Pork is done all ways; there are fatty slices of boiled pig, ribs caramelised and juicy, pork with crackling, mince stuffed in tomatoes, bits from inside stir-fried and turmeric stained trotters not trotting anymore.

The pig is dead but very well-utilised! Chickens have lost their heads, too, their flesh also figuring pretty prominently. Snails, squid scattered with dill and a soup containing bitter melon round out the selections. At my local market in the late afternoons, the vendors clear out.

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Meat and produce sellers alike vacate the stalls they rent in the market building and cart their stock to the side of the narrow road on which the market is situated. It's a monotonous and painstaking process. Perfectly displayed merchandise, having served the pre-lunch shoppers well, is packed carefully into baskets, styrofoam boxes and all manner of containers and hauled fifty metres or so, where it is again artfully organised to attract the consumer eye.

In the current heat, this mad daily operation zaps the energy and patience of these small business operators. They are curt to even the most polite bargaining. They make this move because their customers no longer want to stop, park their motorbikes and walk into the market stalls, preferring instead to do a drive through pit stop shop. I know what food looks like because I've really been exposed to it. I take note of what goes in my piehole.

One category becomes the realm of my gag activator, where nasties are noted. What I'm trying to say is that I've developed, as have you, prejudices and pre-conceived ideas about food. These can evolve into lifetime barriers; for many years an olive was a salty rubber bullet to me and I'm still not convinced about oysters au naturale.

The fermentation gives the sauce a mild hint of alcohol. The fresh chili clipped in gives it heat. The sauce appears to hold all the potential with this dish.

Where to find chef-made turkey stock, deep-fried Cajun turkeys and lots of pie

While I can't say "I told you so", I can say "I told myself so! As a culinary episode, it gets the thumbs down.


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  8. I will defend its importance in this still developing country's foodscape, however. Not everyone can afford to eat like me. The beach is a supermarket in Nha Trang, Vietnam's south-central coast beach resort town. Earlier this year, I spent two weeks in its aisles. As is the case in much of the country, particularly the major towns and cities, there's no need to actually physically go shopping. From my front gate in Hanoi's West Lake district or indeed from my banana lounge on Nha Trang's golden sands, I let the shopping come to me.

    This morning in Hanoi, where the variety of travelling vendors pounding the pavement meets virtually all my retail needs, I could've bought hot corn on the cob, a studded dog collar, a wedge of pumpkin and a handful of chilies, a padded pink bra, a cornetto , a bunch of flowers and a hoola hoop , among other things. As I stood on my doorstep, I could also have had my shoes shined, my knives sharpened and my cockroaches exterminated.

    In Nha Trang, the beach supermarket caters more for tourists and holiday-makers.

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    One afternoon as I laid about like a sloth on the beach having just turned the last page of a fantastic book of food stories , I scribbled down a list of the products walking by. Other vendors offer to adorn me. If I'm feeling lucky, another vendor will sell me a lottery ticket.